An island that made a decision and stuck with it
In 1953 the Greek government proposed connecting Hydra’s port to its inland villages by road. The island voted no. That decision, made over seventy years ago, is the reason Hydra looks the way it does today: a horseshoe harbour lined with grey-stone mansions built by 18th-century sea captains, its steep lanes navigable only on foot or by donkey, its waterfront free of the scooters and quad bikes that clutter almost every other Greek island.
There are no motor vehicles on Hydra. None permitted at all, not even for deliveries — freight moves by donkey train, which you will see hauling everything from bottled water to construction materials up the narrow paths above the port. The lack of vehicles is not a gimmick. It shapes everything: the silence above the harbour, the smell of jasmine rather than exhaust, the fact that the island’s interior has barely changed since the captains who built these houses were fighting the Ottomans at sea.
Hydra is the most sophisticated of the Saronic Islands and the most rewarding single day trip from Athens.
Getting there from Piraeus
All ferry and hydrofoil services depart from the Piraeus ferry port — take Metro Line 1 to the Piraeus terminus (25 minutes from Monastiraki, €1.40) and walk south along the quayside to Gates E8–E9.
Hellenic Seaways Flying Cat (hydrofoil catamaran): departs roughly hourly in peak season, journey time 1 hour 40 minutes, fare approximately €32–36 one way in 2026. This is the default choice — fast, comfortable, no need to book far ahead outside August.
Conventional ferry (slower boat): roughly 2 hours 15 minutes, €15–18 one way. Cheaper and more atmospheric but only practical if you have time to spare and enjoy watching islands drift past from an open deck.
Book tickets at the Hellenic Seaways office at the port, online at hellenicseaways.gr, or through any of the organised departures below. Return journeys fill up on summer weekends — buy a return before you board outbound if you have a firm plan to return on a specific sailing.
A private guided day trip with ferry included is the most stress-free format: your guide meets you at Piraeus, handles all tickets, and walks you through the island’s history and architecture before you have free time to swim and explore.
The port and town
Hydra’s port is one of the most immediately striking arrivals in the Aegean. As the hydrofoil rounds the headland the harbour opens up: a crescent of cafes and tavernas at water level, and rising steeply behind them the pale-grey mansions of the 18th-century shipowners who made this island wealthy enough to fund the Greek War of Independence.
Several of these mansions are still family homes, others now operate as boutique hotels. The Lazaros Koundouriotis Historical Mansion near the top of the port is open to visitors (€4 entry) — the interior is preserved largely as it was in the 1780s, with carved wooden ceilings and the original furniture of a prosperous sea captain’s household.
The waterfront itself is lined with cafes, galleries, and the kind of shops that sell linen clothes and hand-painted ceramics rather than plastic Parthenons. Leonard Cohen lived here for much of the 1960s; the artistic community that formed around him set a tone the island has maintained. The photography gallery near the clock tower above the port shows rotating exhibitions of serious work.
Donkeys wait at the port to carry luggage to hotels. You will hear them before you see them.
Walking, swimming, and what to eat
Hydra rewards walking more than almost any island of its size. The path west along the coast from the port to Kamini (15 minutes) and then Vlychos (35 minutes) is the most popular route — flat, shaded, and ending at a small bay with a good taverna and clear water for swimming.
The rocks at Spilia, just below the cannon terrace on the east side of the port, are the locals’ preferred swimming spot — no beach, just flat rocks and deep water that is remarkably clean given the proximity to the harbour.
For longer walks, the path to the monastery of Profitis Ilias (about 1.5 hours each way, steep) rewards with views across to the Peloponnese and, on clear days, the outline of the Attic coast. Take water.
Lunch at one of the port tavernas is fine but overpriced; the better value is 15 minutes’ walk in any direction. At Kamini, Kodylenia’s serves grilled fish and local mezedes at honest prices. At Vlychos, the taverna by the water has fresh seafood and a terrace over the sea.
A full-day swimming trip around Hydra by boat reaches the island’s most secluded coves — accessible only by water — with lunch included and time at multiple stops.
Combined island trips
Hydra pairs well with Poros as a two-island day if you take the first hydrofoil out (around 7–8 am) and are comfortable with a brisk pace. Poros is 30 minutes from Hydra by hydrofoil and has a very different character — greener, quieter, close enough to the Peloponnese mainland that you can almost reach across.
A private two-island trip covering both Hydra and Poros is the most flexible format: your own boat, your own pace, stops wherever the water looks good.
For a larger Saronic circuit, the Hydra, Poros and Aegina cruise guide covers the full three-island itinerary in a single day. It is achievable but involves moving on after two to three hours on each island — fine as an overview, less satisfying than a dedicated day on Hydra alone.
The island hopping from Athens guide has the logistics for multi-day combinations.
Practical notes
There are no ATMs that reliably accept foreign cards — bring cash, or withdraw before leaving Piraeus. Most restaurants accept cards but several do not.
Accommodation ranges from the grand Bratsera Hotel (a converted sponge factory, around €200–300/night in season) to simple rooms above the port for €80–120. Book well ahead for July and August.
The island has a small medical centre but no hospital — the ferry to the mainland is the emergency option.
A full-day Saronic cruise with VIP seating and port transfers is worth considering if you want to see Hydra alongside the other islands with a guided commentary and return transport included — a good option for visitors who prefer not to navigate ferry schedules independently.
The Saronic Islands cruise guide and the Greek islands from Athens overview cover the full range of day trips from the capital if Hydra is part of a broader island plan.